Yet another entry in the ‘tastes like not-a-burger but is a-burger’ category comes Smith the Grocer’s Kiwi as Fish & Chippie, a handheld take on the kiwi classic.

Pan-fried fish with a potato rosti and tartare sauce is a really clever way to bring in all the flavours and textures of fish & chips without the problem of soggy breading or overcooked fish. The rosti adds a great crunch to proceedings, and the fish is seared and seasoned perfectly. On top of it is a delicious tartare sauce that drips onto the chips in anticipation of a post-burger graze.

The staff are kind enough to ask if I’d like a grilled pineapple ring added to the burger at no extra charge, so I figured might as well have it the way God intended. The juiciness of the pineapple really brought it home for me. The sweetness combined with the tangy tartare sauce meant all bases were covered in the flavour department, and the soft bun and crunchy rosti brought in the texture.

Then, finally, the beachside chippie-style chips. Dark yellow, slightly rough chunks of potato that remind me that while we’re in the resurgence of Winter, Summer is never far behind. Great fish burger.